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Leather University™
Author, speaker, teacher, and educator on leather working tools and techniques.
Welcome back, and if you’re joining us for the first time, you’ve entered the world of leathercraft exploration. Today, we’re embarking on a fascinating journey to unravel the intricate facets that define leather quality. Leather is a realm filled with myths and misconceptions, particularly surrounding terms like “full grain” and “top grain.” In this adventure, we’re diving deep into the specifics, unveiling the five crucial elements that shape leather quality. We’ll discover how each of these elements influences the leather and why it matters and how this knowledge can guide you in choosing the perfect leather for your next project. So, let’s dive in!
Leather quality is a bit of a puzzle with many ways to define it. People often discuss top or full grain leather as the best and genuine or bonded leather as the worst. These terms refer to the layer of the leather it comes from. But there’s so much more to leather quality than that. It can vary from one tannery to another and even within the same tannery. So, in a nutshell, leather quality is like a moving target. The better the quality control a tannery has, the more consistent the leather will be over time.
Leather quality elements include:
Regarding leather quality, there are various factors to consider, and it can vary significantly. The first major factor is the type of animal the leather comes from. Different animals have distinct physical characteristics that affect their quality.
For instance, bison leather boasts a unique grain pattern and density, which sets it apart. In contrast, goat leather has a different grain pattern and density, showcasing variations in fiber composition. Each type of leather has its own set of characteristics often seen as quality indicators. Whether it’s the tight fiber density of kangaroo leather, the smooth, tight fibers of calfskin, or the looser texture of sheepskin, it all starts with the animal source.
The next crucial step in the leather-making process is tanning. Tanning can vary significantly depending on the tannery where it occurs and the techniques they use. In more advanced and complex tanneries, you’ll find many processes, higher production standards, and consistent results backed by rigorous quality assurance and testing. This results in leather of superior quality and a more dependable output over time.
On the other hand, when working with smaller, local tanneries or those still refining their processes and quality control, you may encounter more variation between batches and potentially lower-quality leathers. It’s important to note that there are exceptions, as some niche tanners can produce small quantities of exceptionally high-quality leather.
In general, though, larger tanneries with well-established practices tend to offer more consistent results and higher-quality output. The type of tanning, whether it’s chrome tanning, brain tanning, or vegetable tanning, is another key factor that significantly influences the final quality of the leather. Even if you start with a great animal hide, an inadequate tanning process can result in a less-than-ideal or average piece of leather to work with.
The next factor associated with leather quality is the tannery grade. Tanneries produce batches of leather that go through the tanning process and emerge as finished, ready-to-cut, and sellable leather. Since each Tannery is unique, they assign their untanned leather to specific grade ranges, typically labeled A, B, C, and D, which can also be referred to as 1, 2, 3, and 4. There’s also a fifth grade known as “utility,” which is all about pure functionality. It might be rough and basic.
Additionally, there’s something called “Tannery run,” where higher grades like A have fewer flaws and a cleaner, more consistent surface. Moving to Grade B, you may notice slight color variations and minor blemishes. Grade C can have more color variations and some abrasions, while Grade D may feature larger flaws that impede its use for crafting.
It’s important to note that the quality of a grade can vary between Tannery runs, even from the same Tannery, depending on factors like the quality of the leather and the specific run. You can expect more consistency when working with high-quality Tanneries, but it’s good to be aware of these nuances when choosing your leather.
In the fourth aspect, we’re talking about the location on the leather hide where the leather comes from. So, when you buy a piece of leather, it could be from various parts of the hide, like the side, shoulder, or bend. Where it comes from affects the fibers’ makeup, how closely they’re packed, and even how the leather looks and feels, including its surface texture. Usually, the quality tends to improve as you move closer to the middle part of the hide. So, it’s something to consider when you’re shopping for leather.
So, up to this point, we’ve explored four different factors that influence the quality of leather, and the last one, which is quite popular and crucial, is where the leather is cut from. We often talk about full grain and top grain leather, which comes from the top layer, retaining the original grain pattern and resulting in strong, durable leather. On the other hand, there’s suede, which is obtained from the corium area and lacks the outer surface; it’s essentially split, and it has looser fibers.
We also have split leather, bonded leather, and similar variations, all of which impact the characteristics of the final piece of leather. What’s essential to understand is that when it comes to “leather quality,” it’s not always a straightforward good or poor distinction. Instead, there are these five key elements, each with their variations over time. This means that the leather you get one day might be different the next due to various factors at play.
To sum it up, five key elements determine the quality of leather. Firstly, the type of animal it comes from plays a significant role, as each animal’s fibers have unique characteristics. Secondly, whether Chrome, brain, or vegetable tanning, the tanning process makes a difference. Thirdly, the quality level of the tannery’s production can vary widely. Tanneries grade themselves, and this can change with each batch they produce. The fourth element is the cut section of the leather hide. The specific section can impact the quality even if the other factors are excellent. Finally, the layer from which the leather is cut influences the characteristics of the final piece.
When you combine these five elements, you get the leather you use to craft high-quality products and accessories. The journey from an animal’s hide to your desk is truly magical. It’s what makes leather items so special, as a lot goes into creating them. When you craft something with quality leather, it can last for decades, thanks to great craftsmanship and high-quality leather.
So, the next time you’re shopping for leather or want to understand what you already have, keep these factors in mind. I hope you’ll find the included PDFs helpful and if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out.
Happy crafting!
Dan Concord is a professional leather crafter with 15 years of design experience and expertise. He is founder of the successful Liberty Leather Goods studio, and also a published author, speaker, teacher, and educator on leather working tools and techniques. He lives in the USA.
