Leather University™
Cactus Leather
for Leather Working
by Dan Concord
Author, speaker, teacher, and educator on leather working tools and techniques.
Leather University™
Author, speaker, teacher, and educator on leather working tools and techniques.
Crafted from biodegradable materials and requiring minimal water usage during production, cactus leather offers versatility for various leather goods. Let’s explore the history, production process, market presence, and practical uses of this promising material, offering insights and tips for incorporating cactus leather into your projects.
Cactus leather is a relatively new vegan leather with a lot to offer. It is a faux material made of biodegradable, environmentally friendly, and sustainable materials. A key element is the nopal cactus, whose leaves are used to formulate this new material structure, which is then combined with polyurethane and recycled materials to create this vegan leather.
Cactus leather is a relatively new vegan leather that has gained popularity due to its sustainable and environmentally friendly properties. Cactus leather first came to the market in 2019 after the company Desserto premiered it at the international leather fair Lineapelle in Milan. It was the byproduct of Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez, who had experience working with leather and faux leather in the fashion and automotive industries.
They noted excessive waste and thought there must be a more environmentally friendly alternative to faux and animal leather. They recognized the faults of faux and animal leather: Faux leather is entirely made out of plastic; animal leather is often tanned with harsh chromium salts and dyed with volatile organic compounds, and the cattle industry leads to deforestation.
With this in mind, they embarked on a two-year process of developing cactus leather. After two years of research and development with their global partners, they patented their process of making faux leather out of the nopal cactus. The result was a breathable and sustainable faux leather.
Looking at the top view of cactus leather, we can see a relatively consistent structure with a pattern imparted into it, giving it an appearance similar to natural leather. We can also see some marks where the hair may have been before the tanning process, which adds to its leather-like look. The top layer of cactus leather has a bit of texture to it, making it unique.
Looking at the bottom of the cactus leather, we can see a textile backing that is different from natural leather. The cactus fibers are ground and mixed together to create the top layer, which is then bound to the material layer below it. The top layer looks like natural leather and has a texture, while the bottom layer has a more fabric-like fiber.
In natural leather, there are striations and layering of the fibers, while in cactus leather, the bottom layer is a fabric structure, and as we get higher up towards the top layer, we can see the blended material that includes the cactus fibers, resulting in a relatively thicker top layer that is exposed. The top layer is a little bit denser than the middle layer, which has a larger porous section to that composite material.
Looking at the cross section of cactus leather, we can see its unique composition. The top layer of the material is relatively consistent in structure, with a pattern that resembles natural leather. The bottom layer, on the other hand, has a fabric-like texture.
In natural leather, we can observe the striations and layering of the fibers, while in cactus leather, the top layer is a thicker composite material that includes cactus fibers. As we move towards the middle layer, we can see a larger porous section of the composite material.
To make cactus leather, the mature leaves of the nopal cactus are harvested. This is done sustainably, leaving the cactus and its newer leaves intact. The leaves are then washed, cleaned, and mashed before being spread out over plastic barriers to dry in the sun. Once dry, the mashed cactus leaves are ground into a fine powder.
After the cactus leaves have been ground into a fine powder, they are mixed with polyurethane to create a synthetic material that looks and feels like leather. This material is then dried and ground to create a top layer that is bound to a textile backing.
The cactus leather production process combines the ground cactus leaves with polyurethane to create a synthetic material. This material is then used to create the top layer of the cactus leather. The polyurethane used is a biopolyurethane, making cactus leather more sustainable than other leather alternatives.
As of the current date, around 600,000 linear yards of cactus leather are produced annually. This is a relatively new material, and production is mainly based in Mexico, the largest exporting country of cactus leather. It is currently being sold in different areas around the world, and more and more countries will begin to import it for use in different goods.
The cost of cactus leather ranges from around $6.50 to $10 per square foot, depending on the color and density. It is available in different colors and densities, giving designers and manufacturers a range of options to choose from.
Cactus leather is a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to traditional leather. Here are some of the benefits of using cactus leather:
As with any new material, there are some cons to consider when it comes to cactus leather. While it has many benefits, it is important to be aware of its limitations as well. Here are some of the cons to keep in mind:
Cactus leather is relatively soft and flexible, making it an excellent choice for personal leather goods and accessories. It is relatively durable and has a unique texture pattern on top that looks similar to natural leather but with its own distinct look and feel.
Cactus leather has become a popular alternative to traditional leather in the fashion industry due to its unique properties and sustainability. Some of the popular fashion items made from cactus leather are:
Aside from fashion and accessories, cactus leather can also be used for other purposes. Some of these include:
When it comes to coloring or painting cactus leather, it’s important to note that it may not be as receptive to dyes as other materials. This is because the surface of cactus leather includes biopolyurethane and cactus fibers. However, it is possible to paint on top of the material itself since painting is essentially applying a pigment over the surface. If you’re looking to make something of a particular color, it’s best to check out the colors that are available from the factory.
Cactus leather is a relatively durable material, but it’s important to take care of it properly to maintain its integrity. When it comes to cleaning, it’s best to avoid using harsh chemicals and solvents as they can make the material separate from the backing. Instead, use gentle cleaners and any kind of a soft-bristled brush to clean the surface. Also, avoid using too much water as it can damage the material. With proper care and maintenance, cactus leather can last for a long time.
So, there you have it. This innovative leather from the Desserto manufacturer it’s a cool way to start exploring alternative and variable materials in the leather space. Cactus leather may differ from natural leather, but it also offers some similarities in look, feel, and texture.
Although there will always be a place for animal leather, cactus leather provides the opportunity to make quality goods that look and feel like leather while being sustainable and potentially benefiting the environment. So, if you’re looking to explore a different material for your next project you might want to give cactus leather a try.
Until next time, keep crafting.
Dan Concord is a professional leather crafter with 15 years of design experience and expertise. He is founder of the successful Liberty Leather Goods studio, and also a published author, speaker, teacher, and educator on leather working tools and techniques. He lives in the USA.
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