Leather University
Mythbusting - Layers Are Not Leather Quality
by Dan Concord
Author, speaker, teacher, and educator on leather working tools and techniques.
Leather University
Author, speaker, teacher, and educator on leather working tools and techniques.
Hey everyone, welcome back! If you’re new here, we’re on a journey to explore the fascinating world of leathercraft. Today, our focus is on unraveling the secrets of leather layers found in natural hide. We’ll dive into three key aspects:
Often, you’ll hear terms like full grain, top grain, and suede thrown around as indicators of leather quality. But the truth is, these layer cuts have their unique characteristics, making them more suitable for specific projects. However, they alone won’t determine the overall quality of the leather. So, let’s jump right in and uncover the mysteries of leather layers together!
When we talk about the layers of natural leather, we primarily deal with three different layers. At the top, we have the grain layer, which consists of the outermost and densest fibers. As we move down, we encounter the grain and corium junction, where the fibers start to open up a bit. Beneath that, there’s the corium layer, with even larger and more open fibers. There’s also the flesh layer, but it’s often removed during the tanning process for most crafting leathers.
Let’s start with full grain leather. This type of leather retains all the original surface texture from the hide. Unlike some other leathers, in full-grain, they don’t smooth that texture out. They take away the hair during the tanning process, but all those natural marks stay. This makes full-grain leather super tough and durable because it keeps that strong outer layer.
Next up is top grain leather. In some top grain leathers, the surface is sanded down to create a consistent look and feel. While it still retains a grain layer, it’s more even in texture compared to full grain leather. As we delve deeper into the layers, you can observe a gradual opening of the fibers, but the core characteristic of top grain leather lies in its reliability and smooth surface, ideal for various crafting endeavors. It’s also quite durable.
Now, let’s explore suede. Suede is made from a part of the animal hide called the corium area. This area has longer fibers, which is why suede feels so different from other leathers. Those longer fibers give it a more open pattern. Even if you look closely at suede, you’ll notice that it’s not smooth like other leathers. It’s got texture, and that’s one of the things that makes it special.
If we take a closer look at suede, we can see those fibers even more clearly. They’re thicker and more open, and it’s all because of where suede comes from – that corium junction. This section of the hide is the key to suede’s softness and texture. During the tanning process, these fibers are kept intact, giving suede its unique feel.
“Genuine leather” is a term often thrown around, but it’s important to understand that it simply means the leather is natural and real. There’s no specific quality tied to the term “genuine.” You might come across it in marketing, but don’t be fooled – it doesn’t guarantee top-notch quality. Leather comes in various types, like full grain, top grain, or suede, each with its unique characteristics. So, the next time you see “genuine leather” mentioned, remember that it’s just the real deal, and the real quality depends on other factors.
It’s important to remember that there’s also something called split leather. Let’s take a quick look at split suede. It’s similar to the leather we just discussed, but it has a looser fiber pattern. Split leather can essentially be separated from any one of the layers in the hide. Often, when we reach the lower layers of the hide, the leather becomes a bit less desirable and less usable. To make the most out of it, manufacturers split it and then apply a coating. This coating could be plastic or a protective layer.
For example, patent leathery is made up of two layers. The bottom layer is genuine leather, the real deal. On top of that, there’s a shiny coating that gives it that patent leather look. It basically splits the leather into these layers and adds the coating, which means you can take leather that might not be in the best shape and still make it useful and stylish. Plus, you can get this split leather from different parts of the hide, which can be either super high quality or not so great. So, remember, the type of leather doesn’t always determine its quality.
Lastly, we have bonded leather, which is leather that’s been through quite a transformation. It’s a mix of ground-up leather fibers bonded together with glues and adhesives. It’s made up of natural leather fibers, but the way it’s put together isn’t natural. Bonded leather can be excellent for linings, interiors, or structural elements. When you look at it, it’s pretty consistent in both its look and feel. But unlike natural leather with its unique grain pattern, bonded leather has more of a fiber pattern because it’s essentially a mix-and-match creation. So, if you need something more uniform and dense, bonded leather might be the way to go.
When it comes to working with leather, the type of leather you choose depends on what you’re making. If you’re crafting something like a fine handbag or accessory, you’ll want to go for full grain or top grain leather for a sturdy and high-quality finish. On the other hand, if you’re aiming for a softer and more flexible product, suede might be your choice. If you’re going for a textured look, you can explore leather splits with specific patterns.
It’s important to note that “genuine leather” is a broad term encompassing all types of leather, and it doesn’t necessarily indicate quality on its own. Quality also depends on the tanning process and other factors. So, understanding the unique characteristics of each type of leather and how they align with your project will help you make informed decisions when crafting.
Armed with this knowledge, you’ll make more informed decisions for your crafting projects. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. We’ve included a link to this guide sheet in the description for your convenience. Happy crafting!
Dan Concord is a professional leather crafter with 15 years of design experience and expertise. He is founder of the successful Liberty Leather Goods studio, and also a published author, speaker, teacher, and educator on leather working tools and techniques. He lives in the USA.
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