This article specifically discusses veg-tan leather that will be stamped or carved. In order to get really defined cuts or stamp marks in leather, it needs to be wetted; but not too wet. There are about as many ways to do this as there are people carving/stamping leather. I have personally tried multiple ways to case (term used for leather after water is applied) leather and have settled in my own mind, at least, what works best for me. All leather casing is done with tap water. No additives at all. Cased leather is at its best time to carve/stamp when it comes back close to its original color, after drying a bit; depending on how wet it was. When casing leather, don’t just case the area you will be working, but the entire area so there are no color differences. If one just wets the area of work, it may appear darker or stained when it does completely dry.

Dipping Technique

The dipping technique literally dips the piece of leather into a water bath for a few seconds, then it is either set aside to dry for a long period of time or placed in a freezer bag overnight. It can take hours for it to dry based on the length of time it spent in the bath.

Spraying Technique

They actually make misting bottles specifically for spraying water onto leather. It sprays a fine mist. One can find these at sellers of leather goods. You can also use a generic spray bottle that has a variable nozzle to accomplish the same thing. With this method, there is less water applied, but it does need to be applied evenly to avoid “stains.” The dry time is normally in minutes. Again, wait until the natural color of the piece comes back.

Sponge Technique

Using fresh water and a fresh sponge (make sure the sponge isn’t one used in a kitchen. Most of those now come with an antimicrobial agent in them. Yep…one of my holsters is actually antimicrobial). Soak the sponge in water and lightly apply it evenly to the entire piece of leather, making sure you have good coverage. The best way to tell it is cased well is when the excess water on top of the leather is no longer being absorbed. When it starts pooling on the leather, it is cased well. This method may take five or so minutes before it is ready to work. This technique is the one I find to work best for me.

Regardless of the method one chooses, it is important to experiment, both with method and dry times. Pay attention to the depth of cut or impression. Is the swivel knife pulling freely through the cut? Is it going deep enough? Are your impressions crisp and clear? Pay attention to the force used to strike the stamp. Once one finds that sweet spot, replicate every time.

Of course there are other variables to consider, like sharpness of the blade or thickness and finish of the leather. Just make sure to alway cut a small piece from the leather you will be tooling and practice on it before potentially ruining that next project.